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Post by fun4me on May 11, 2010 7:48:35 GMT -8
I just bought an hpv4. Not sure of the chasis maybe intrepid maybe a margay. The color dosent help because it's candy apple red. I will be putting number 199 on the kart. I plan on making the race this weekend at apex, this will be my first race ever and I have a few questions.
1. I have a ten tooth driver. what is the range of rear sprockets I should have on hand. The second part to that question is what sprocket will I most likley be using at the track that we are racing this weekend?
2. I don't have any tires or rims I am on a budget so it loos like te maxxis are the better buy. But what size wheels do I need I know that they need to be 5" diameter. But I am not sure about how wide they need to be.
3. This kart does have camber adjustmant I think. Where would be a good starting point to have this at? (the kart was shiped to me so the spindles and steering were broken down). It also has six washers that fit above or below the spindle does that make a differance on where they go? What a good place to start?
4. There are also some spacers on the spindle itself. I assume to acomidate for different width rims do those go I side or outside of the rim?
5. Last one I hope I put the axle in last night the onlything I need to do is put the wheel hubs on. How wide should I start those at.
Any help is much apriciated I know every kart and driver are a litle different , and I am not looking for anyone to just give me all thier racin secrets. I just want some ball parks since I have never raced andi am haveing to put this kart together. Thank you in advance. Tom Herly
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Post by Jeff Shadoan on May 11, 2010 22:04:40 GMT -8
Tom - Welcome to SDKA. We look forward to having you at the races. I'll answer the questions that I can ... these are just some basic baseline settings.
1. Unsure about HPV gearing. Hopefully somebody else can chime in. If not, call the Apex track. They are very helpful and should be able to give you a ballpark.
2. For senior HPV classes ... front wheels = 5 x 130mm (or 132mm) and rear = 5 x 210mm (or 212mm). There are two different styles of front wheels: direct spindle mount (DSM) and hub mount. DSM wheels have bearings and mount directly on the spindles. Hub mount wheels look identical to the rears and mount onto a separate hub ... the hub has the bearings and three wheels studs.
3. A good starting point for camber is neutral (zero camber) to slightly negative. Toe should be set to slight toe out (1/16" or 1mm wider at the front of the wheel vs the back of the wheel). How will you be measuring camber? Put your spindles in the middle of the six spacers/washers (3 on top and 3 on the bottom of each spindle).
4. The spacers on the spindles are for adjusting the front width. Not knowing how many and the thickness of the spacers I'll suggest putting approx 3/4" worth of spacers on the spindles before putting the wheels or hubs on the spindles. Then put just enough spacers on the outside so that the outer most spacer just overhangs the spindle edge where the threads begin. Then install the large nylock nut. Tighten the nylock against the outer spacer then back it off a hair until you can just turn the spacers by hand with your thumb and finger.
5. Make sure you have the axle key under your brake rotor hub. Then center the axle in the chassis: Measure from the outer bearing to the end of the axle on each side; Once each side is the same measurement tighten the bearing set screws onto the axle. Next center the brake rotor in the caliper between the brake pads and tighten the pinch bolt. Then slide the sprocket hub onto the axle making sure to install the axle key. Either now or later you need to make sure the rear sprocket is perfectly aligned with the drive gear/sprocket on the engine before tightening the pinch bolt on the sprocket hub. Next put an axle key in place near the end of the axle and slide-on one of the hubs with wheel attached (or bolt the wheel to the hub after the hub is on the axle -- but before tightening the hub on the axle). Repeat for the other side. Don't forget any of the axle keys. The maximum allowed rear width is 55" from outside tire/wheel edges on both sides. Adjust the hubs with wheels attached to approximately 54-3/4" total width ** make sure each hub is on the axle the same distance (measure from axle bearing to inside hub edge on both sides. Tighten the pinch bolts on the wheel hubs.
Hopefully this helps.
If you need Maxxis tires I'll be at the track on Saturday and Sunday.
Jeff
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Post by Jeff Shadoan on May 11, 2010 22:14:12 GMT -8
Also, you'll need to make sure your kart can pass pre-race safety tech. There are many nuts and bolts that must be safety wired or clipped. He're a link to the Pre-Race Tech Sheet on the SDKA home page. www.sdka.com/SDKA%20Pre-Race%20Tech%20Form%202010.pdfThe kart must pass each of the safety items on this list during pre-race tech inspection on race day morning. See you at Apex this weekend.
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Post by kylekuntze on May 12, 2010 13:04:59 GMT -8
Tom,
Candy apple red means it is probably an older Margay.
Start with an 80 rear gear. You're goin g to need an 11 tooth driver for Qualcomm.
Did the kart come with front hubs? If so get Douglas Aluminum hub mount front wheels...if no hubs the Douglas Spindle Mount aluminum wheels will be fine. I actually have a used set I can bring to the track I'll let go of cheap.
Neutral is a good place to start on front end adjustments and if you have a question on where its at I would be more than happy to take a look at it and explain it to you Sunday morning at the track. Start with about 3 medium spacers on the inside of the wheel. The spacers are a front width adjustment and you can change the level of front grip(how well the kart turns) with this. Make sure the hubs are equal length on both sides(from the frame) and set the overall width around 54 inches.
Enjoy!!!
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Post by fun4me on May 13, 2010 8:59:02 GMT -8
thanks for the info see you sunday.
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